Kuba Shoowa Prestige Panel

The grid is steady. Then, here and there, it isn’t.

Shoowa artisans of the Kuba made this square raffia panel in the Democratic Republic of Congo in the 20th century, worked in the dense cut-pile technique for which they are known. Panels like this were exchanged as currency of prestige, worn in ceremonial dress and kept as heirlooms.

A steady grid of diamonds, each outlined in fine black and cream lines and filled with four smaller black lozenges in a checkered cluster. One square is worked in brown, and others have altered fills, a reminder of the maker’s hand. A plain woven border frames the honey-colored field, about 20 by 21.5 inches.

Find the exceptions. Then ask why.